Gunpla videos on youtube.

Howdy!

I am about to move and things has been crazy! (Thus, no new works/posts lately). However, I wanted to post some useful gunplay videos I found on youtube.com. Yes there are many many gunplay videos on youtube. However, not all are useful.

Below are some videos I found useful for those who wish to learn more about the basics of Gunpla (IMO). Enjoy.

1. BAKUC - How to build GUNPLA (Part One)
(For those of you who does not know what "BAKUC" is). Bandai Action Kits Universal Cup (BAKUC) is an awesome place to go to get "inspired" and/or see some great works.

Anyways here is the video about "How to build GUNPLA" by BAKUC (However, video maybe not be uploaded by BAKUC) Anyways, I'll shut up for now... check out these videos.





I will be able to do some more gunpla once I settle in my new place (Probably mid-end FEB 09)

Thanks

Zebu

Bandai 1/72 VF-25S Part 3 of 3

Howdy!

VF-25S poject is DONE!

Well, actual model wa done as of part 2 of this post. On this post, I will work on custome make base for VF-25S.

Background information

This mecha is used predominately in the space (in animation series). Thus, I wanted to create "moon surface" like base (with crater and all). Also, I wanted to incorporate Bandai Action Base 1 so it can display the model properly. O.K enough talk, checkout the WIP photos below.

The Base

I used ¾ inched thick plywood as the base of this construction. The dimension was 7.5 inches wide by 10.5 inches long (It was odd dimensions indeed. However worked with Bandai Action Base 1 I incorporated in to the base).

Next, I displayed model with Bandai Action Base 1 and adjust the location on the plywood board.

Next, secured the Bandai Action Base 1 on the plywood board, and plug all the holes with some rolled up cottons. Then I used aluminum foils to fill in the space around the action base.

Next, I used “Rigid Wrap: Plaster Cloth” from Michael’s Art Store to cover the foil and shape the terrain features. Same technique was used in my previous custom made base for my Arctic Warfare Zaku project HERE. *Note* I placed some circular boundaries around some holes to ensure I get some crates in the finished product.

Next I broke some volcanic rocks I got from various trips I took from past to get some “rock powders” that will create the effect/texture of “moon surface”.

Next, I used some “Liquitex: Black Lava texture gel” from Micheals Art Store to shape and form the details of terrain. Then I sprinked the "rock powders".

After it has been dried, I pulled off the cotton balls and gave it a base coat of dark grey.

Next, I applied second layer of " texture gel followed by final sprinkles of "rock powders" and boulders.

O.K, DONE! Here are some photos of finished product.

Thanks for reading!!

Zebu

Bandai 1/72 VF-25S Part 2 of 3

Howdy!

Applying sticker on VF-25S is not hard. However, I wanted to be able to transform between modes without worrying about them coming off…

Red circles indicate some area that will most likely rub off during transformation.







Now, Lets look at the red circle area below. I decide to go crazy and use CRAZY GLUE to strengthen the stickers. Yellow arrow indicates the location where I applied very VERY little amount of super (crazy) glue.





Next, I cut the sticker by the red lines so that it won't get rubbed off during transformation.

Next three shots will show how the area below the wing hinge is now free from being rubbed off.

Same method was used at the tip of tail fins (?)

1. Super glue drop

2. cut off the excess sticker (red line)

All the edges in the red circle were treated with same techinique. After several transformations, I am happy to inform you that all the stickers are still intact. I plan to file it down smooth and apply top coat. I hope that will eliminate the glue marks.

Here are some finished shots before weathering.

Basically, you don't have to go any further with the model and just finish it with the seal and call it a day. However, I wanted to put some weatering effects on it.

Many asked me about weathering techniques. In my opinion, "weathering techinique" can be very subjective argument (in other words, do as YOU please). I went for a "light weathering" without any physical alteration to the kit (i.e. battle damage).

There are several weathering techiqnues I used in the past. These were:

1. Weathering pen

2. Pastel

3. Tamiya Weathering kit

4. Enamel wash

I used weathering kit on this model (I got them from E-bay, search "weathering kit").

Very easy to do. It kinda reminds you of make-up kit.

*Important: Don't go crazy with the weathering kit. Apply very light amount. Lighter the better. If you can barely tell that it is on, then it will look more natural.

Here are some finished shots.

So that's it! I am done with VF-25S. On Part 3 VF-25S, I will post some more photos and about custom made base (Nothing fancy, probably similar to one I made for my "Arctic Warfare Zaku".)

Thanks for reading.

Zebu

Bandai 1/72 VF-25S Part 1 of 3

Howdy,

My next build was Bandai 1/72 VF-25S.

Introduction
Along with Gundam animation series, I am a huge fan of Macross animation series. Thus, 1/72 VF-25S model kit release by Bandai was a dream come true.

About the kit
Since there are many great photo reviews on the internet already on this kit so I will NOT go in to that. Please go following site for detail review.

1. You can find the photo review by dalong HERE.
2. You can find building in progress photos HERE.
3. You can find out of the box review HERE.


Quick glance

Now, after looking at some above references, I made following notes.
1. There are some discrepancies of color scheme (indicated by the red arrows in the photo, these parts are regular grey in the kit. They should be lighter grey.)

2. Despite my concerns, the color separation for the head is excellent.

3. Head include some cool gimmicks (Would be “jaw lines” fold so the head fits behind the cockpit area)

4. The clear part in front of the fighter (below, forward) is still covered by light purple sticker. This part (and canopy) will need some clear coatings.

5. Panel line fill and sticker application are must (check out the straight build without any panel lines and stickers applied YUCK!!! )

6. As all Bandai kits (normal release version) it has semi gloss look that make the model seem very plasticky (to me at least) a subdued, matted finish would give much “heavier” look.

The Plan
Here are some works/touch ups (well, these should not even be considered “WORKS” since it will not require that much of skill…. All I will need is some easy to get equipments/supply, attention to detail and lots of patient/time. SO let’s call it a “touch-up”.)

1. Prep kit by filling in the panel lines and applying light coats of clear spray paints.
2. Paint (air brush) three locations mentioned above to match the color scheme.
3. Add some texture on the canopy (Experimental technique).
4. Apply stickers and secure it with some super glue.
5. Apply weathering
6. Finish by applying sealer.

Work-in-progress

1. Kit preparation- Panel lines: People asked me a lot regarding panel line filling.
There are several options on panel linings. You can:
a) use very thin enamel and use osmoses to fill in the lines.
b) use gundam marker and rub off the excess ink.
c) use pastel and/or weathering kit/powder to brush in the panel line and remove excess dusts.

I used gundam marker method because I am most comfortable with this method and (for me) it is relatively easy to fix any mistakes I may (and always does) make.

Supply lists:
- Gundam Marker from HERE (I know it says sold out here but you can get them anywhere including e-bay. I got the one that says “GM01” Black)
- Baby oil
-Cotton swab
- Mini cotton pads
-Regular eraser
-My thumb!

Technique: Basic idea is truly logical so DON’T let it scare you!!! You just fill in the line with the pen, and rub off and/or erase the excess ink. I say excess ink because the tip of gundam marker is much thicker than most panel lines of VF-25S. Also, I draw in Panel lines while parts are still attached to spur. I find it easy to work (better control of parts) and review to ensure I haven’t missed any lines.

Steps/tips
1). Draw in small portion of panel line (use about the same amount pressure as when you write)


2). Coat your thumb with very small amount of baby oil. Again, the “operative words” are VERY SMALL AMOUNT!! Simply put some baby oil on your thumb and wipe it off with cotton pads so you can barely tell that there are oils on your thumb.



3). Rub off excess ink with your thumb. Always rub off perpendicular (90 degree in angle) to the line so that you don’t rub off the actual panel line. Also, I believe Gundam marker ink is oil-based ink (Contrary to popular claim that it is water-based) because it is very easily removed with you use baby oil. If you try to rub it off by good ol’ “spit and rub” technique, you’ll find it much harder and I truly believe that it is the “vigorous rubbing” action that is removing the ink, NOT the spit (water-based) .

4) Erase/ wipe off the area that because discolored due to spread of excess ink (Honestly, this rarely happens. However, it will be noticed when you are done if you let it pass).


5) If you have made a mistake, then use baby oil to remove the mistake and redo (or use your thumb).
6) For hard to reach area, use either cotton swab and/or rolled up cotton pad to remove excess ink.
7) Wash your thumb frequently to keep inks from spreading back to the kit.


8) Final thought. SLOW THE HELL DOWN!!!!! Keep in mind that this WILL take all day (6-8 hours, first time). You can try to be all “high speed” and rush this but I found that when I work more than one inch at a time, the Gundam marker ink dried too fast and lines looked all messy. But, that’s it for my two cents. Here are some comparision shots.

1. Kit preparation- subdued looks.
This is very simple 10 minute process to improve your kit’s plasticky looks (However, that is entirely my opinion. If you like the glossy look of the kit, then skip this step).

I use “Kryon Matte Finish” on my models to give that subdued/heavy feel. I got mine from Wal-mart for $2.99. You can get detail information about this spray Here

Two positive effects for doing this (IMHO) are 1). You model look great!! Well, obviously..LOL 2).In many cases, it makes the joints tighter so models seem to pose well (In VF-25S case, parts hold together pretty tight in the fighter mode… no more loose hips and legs… LOL that sounded like something else).

2. Paint
Although, I prefer brush painting on many Gundam models, I wanted to use my airbrush on this kit because very little masking was needed (I hate masking!!! I rather gouge my eyes out and fry them then to mask the entire model kits for air brushing!!! Especially big kits like Perfect Grade Gundam Models…LOL).

For masking I cheated a bit. I used regular making tape to cover the larger parts but I also used pre-cut, 1mm/2mm masking tape (Mr. Finely Slit Masking Sheets) I bought from hobbywave (Link HERE).

After that, I applied Mr Surfacer Spray 1000 (http://www.hobbywave.com/modeling_supplies/sprays/mr-surfacer-spray-1000-large.html) and airbrushed the area noted above. One tricky thing was matching the color scheme. The part needed to be paint is NOT white. They are light grey. Based on the manual, it is about 80% white 20% grey but after doing this, I think it will be better if proportion is 85% white and 15% grey (However, the difference is barely noticed).

3. Canopy and other clear parts
I worked on these clear parts for the kit. 1). Sensors located at the nose area of fighter (normally treated by purple stickers eww~) 2). Two canopy parts.

For these parts, I used two techniques I been working on. First is called “Dunking method” (yes I named it so I doubt you may find others calling it by the same name).
I used this technique before when I wanted a very light and transparent look on clear part. The concept behind it is same as when you dye white T-shirt. Let me explain…. LOL. When you dye T-shirt the ol’ school way, one should dunk white T-shirt in desire Dye (darker then desired color) then wash it to take out excess Dye… Right? I used the same concept there. The sensors are purple color. So I mixed some enamel to make desired purple shade then added enough thinner to consistency of water. Then I dunked the clear color parts, let it dry for 30 seconds, then place then in clear thinner to wash out until desired purple shade come out.

I like this method better than using “Clear Enamel” because I don’t have to worry about any streak marks (from the brush) and it is very evenly applied.

The second technique I used required basically dissolving the clear parts to give semi-clear look. I didn’t particularly like the fact that canopies of VF-25 were all clear parts in the animation. I figured that these canopies would act as a 360 degree monitors when it becomes the Robot mode, thus would have rough texture due to all the LCD and sensor parts embedded in the glasses itself (again just my personal opinion).

Anyways, in order to recreate that rough surface look, one can scratch the surface of clear parts on until desired look is accomplished (DUMBASS WAY TO DO, because it will never be evenly scratched) or use solvent to evenly dissolve the clear part until it loose its clear character and obtain semi-clear/rough textures.

I used “Goof-off” http://www.goof-off.com/ to accomplish this. PLEASE BECAREFUL when you/if you use this product. This is an ultimate stain remover. This contains Xylene, Methanol, and Ethanol 2 (2-Methoxyethoxy); (Diethylene glycol monomethyl ether.) and extremely flammable. Plus this WILL DISSOLVE YOUR ENTIRE MODEL if you let it. But this is very cheap to buy and wildly available. I got mine from Wal-mart for less than $5.

I applied “goof-off” to clear part using brush then washed the part with enamel thinner once it start to dissolve the parts (no more than 30 seconds). Finally I’ve masked the canopy to paint the frame.

Well, this is for now. I will discuss sticker and weathering techniques on part 2.

Thanks for reading..

Zebu

MG Turn A Gundam

Howdy!!

I’ve been real busy lately and preparing to move (In JAN 09).
Anyways, my next project (although it was too simple to be called “Project”), was MG Turn A Gundam.

Introduction

It is not my favorite Gundam Series and I've never intent to buy the kit until now. However, I am planning on building “1/72 Bandai VF-25 kit series” from “Macross Frontier” in near future and needed to do some more practice on panel line filling.....Ergo, "most panel line rich" MG Gundam kit ever made, I present Turn A Gundam!!


About the Kit

Once again, detailed model kit review can be found at dalong.net so I won't go in to that. I do, however, want to mention that this is a "beautiful" kit. The impression I had for this mobil suit changed 180 degree after completion. This kit embrace both rigidness of sci-fi mecha and curvatures/fluidity of animation mecha. Simply put, this looks like it literally jumped out of the animation.

Works

Now, after all that praise, does this kit lack any fault? Well, far from it. Check out the stright build pictures from dalong.net

As you can see, the stright build of this model kit looks a lot different from the finished model by other builders and/or concept arts that you may find on the internet. The main reason is that this kit has massive amount of panel lines that must be filled in in order to achieve its "authentic" looks. and... there are many many many panel lines to be filled (Great practice for those who wish to get some nice/tricky/advance panel line fillings).

Another reason for its very "toy-like" apperance is due to bandai's glossy finishing of the kit. Please review see the spur (runner) shots below dalong.net for reference.

I did two things to remedy the looks.

1. Filled in the panel lines (well, obviously). I like to fill in the panel lines stright on to the parts while these are still on the runners. This way I can ensure ALL panel lines are filled and don't have to worry about having to take the model apart to fill in the panel lines.

2. I used the same technique I used for my MG Destiny Gundam project to attain the model's very subdued/none glossy/plastic-like look.

Here are some close-up shots

See the shield looks like the surface of egg shell now (instead of shiny plactic cover) NICE~

Completion

I decided not to apply any decal for this model because it is just that pretty without any addtional detailing. Enjoy!!

-Zebu-

ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam -Completed-

Howdy!!

ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam is done.
I'll let the photos speak for themselves (Click to view larger photo).

Thanks for looking!!

Zebu

ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam -Work-In-Progress-

Introduction

Howdy!

My next project (1 OCT to 11 OCT) was "ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam". Some asked me if I paint my models every time… well it depends. I do paint my gunpla if I have color scheme in mind. However, I believe it is not necessary to repaint the model kit for repaint sake especially if the original color scheme of model kit is good enough.

Here I’ve worked on "ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam" with partial painting (brush) and detailing to produce very “presentable” display item. Enjoy!

Logistics

Gunpla
1. ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam normal version from Hobbywave = $52.95

Detail parts
1. Silver plated Jewelry Connection from J.C moore = $2
2. Stainless Steel balls 0.7mm = $5.99
3. Metal Screw Pins = $4.99
4. Gunpla Temple Metal Detail kit ER + SC = $13.95
5. Gunpla Temple Metal Detail Kit T5 = $13.95

Paint and Misc.
1. Testors Enamel: 1180 Steel = $1.99
2. Testors Enamel: 1146 Silver = $1.99
3. Testors Enamel: 1151 Copper = $1.99
4. Testors Enamel: 1144 Gold = $ 1.99
5. Perl EX pigments: 663 Silver = $4.99
6. Hand drill, Super glue, Gunpla Nipper, and other necessary tools

Kit Review
ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam is a great kit. Pictures below from dalong.net shows straight build of the kit (no paint, sticker/decal, panel line and/or paint) and detail of inner frame.




Paint

While I did like the original paint scheme of Destiny Gundam, I did not like the fact that it was very glossy (Miserable fact of most plastic injection kits…. It is plasticky).

For most people, this very fact would cause them to repaint the kit to give very flat color as shown here in HG 1/100 Destiny Gundam by Japanese modeler. Well, the good news is that you can achieve this flat color feel without painting by applying some Krylon" Matte finish sealer (Shown in my earlier Zaku 205: Arctic Warfare post). I used same technique I utilized to repaint the inner frame of Strike Freedom Gundam.

Here are the detail shots of the parts after sealer has been applied.

*Important Tip*

1. Draw in ALL PANEL LINES before applying the seal!!!

2. Apply 2-3 light coats rather than one heavy coats of sealer.

Here is comparison shot of wing unit with and without the seal coats (Click to view larger photo).

*Useful Tip*

Use zip lock bag and place all parts with label. This will save tone of time later (especially when you have to figure out parts for left and right).

Inner Frame Paint/Detailing

Destiny Gundam has very detailed inner frame.

*Useful Tip*
Examine the frame thoroughly and make note regarding joints/parts/location that requires special attention when painting (i.e. location where paint would likely cause mobility issues and/or paint that will be scratched away due to joint movements).




I used "Dry brush" technique using misture of Testors Enamel: 1180 and Perl EX pigments: 663 Silver.

Here are some detail shots

Note how it really gave the "Metal feel".
Next I added additional detail painting using Testors Enamel: 1151 Copper.

Next, I brush painted the Hydraulics located on the ankle with Testors Enamel: 1146 Silver and Testors Enamel: 1144 Gold.

Next, I brush painted the Calf Thruster with red and sliver.

Here are some finished inner frame shots.

Detailing

I got a pack of “Silver plated Jewelry Connection” from J.C Moore art store. These are about 2mm in diameter and perfect to give metal Thruster look all over gunpla.

Of course I had to enhance Destiny Gundam's unique hand beam :)

Wing unit Paint/Detailing

I used Metal Detail Kit T5 from Gunpla Temple (purchased from hobbywave.com) to upgrade the burner on the Wing Unit.

Next, I painted the missing details on the wing (Grey and sliver for the wing thrusters).

Next were the wing Hydraulics.

And Wing vent units (I think these are the vent unit....)

Wing unit painting is done!!!

Now, I added some more detail parts to enhance the look. Here, I used metal screws to give more "mechanical looks"

Here, I tried something new.

I drilled some holes on the part above the Wing Burners to give some "Gundam Evolve" look :)

Finally (for wing unit at least) I added some 0.7 mm Steel balls on the wing (near the spur marks) for some added fun.

Weapon Paint/Detailing

I did two simple brush paitings for the gaint sword unit.

1. Applied silver on the blade

2. Applied white highlights on the beam saber.

I noticed some obvious details were missing from the original kits weapon system so I used Metal Detail kit ER + SC from Gunpla Temple (purchased from hobbywave.com) at the location (red circle).

Body Paint/Detailing

I first brush painted the pilot as directed in the manual.

Finally (for real), I applied the metal detail parts to the body.

*Note*

I also drilled right below the Calf thrusters (same as the ones done for the Wing Unit) to add that "evolve" look.

The Decal/sticker and VERY LIGHT weathering was applied as the last step.

The finished/action shots will be posted later.

Thanks for reading!!!

Zebu