Zebu's Gundam/Transformers Factory

DOTM LEADER CLASS IRONHIDE MK III by ZEBU 1 of n

2011-09-21T04:50:00.001-07:00

Howdy!

Looooong waited DOTM LEADER CLASS IRONHIDE MK III (MK III from now on) work has begun.

Ironhide MK I WIP can be seen here: http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/radicons-customs/448644-project-dotm-leader-class-ironhide-zebu-wip.html
Background stories and more photos of Ironhide MK II can be seen here: http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/radicons-customs/458570-project-dotm-leader-class-ironhide-mk-ii-zebu.html

Introduction:

MK III will be my final rendition of Ironhide Character from the "Transformers" movie series.
MK III is basically the version of movie Ironhide with all possible upgrade notes made during MK I and MK II projects.

Pre-project notes:

This WILL be a 'TRANSFORMABLE' figure. While 'transformable' transformer sounds obvious, some of the most awesome custom transformers out there are not transformable. This is just a personal preference. I like mine to be transformable.
Articulated hands. Continuing the tradition of MK I and MK II, MK III will have fully articulated hands.
The Arm kibbles. Same as MK I and MK II, the arm kibbles will be repositioned to back of the figure in robot mode.
Foot mod. After nearly a month of bench tests, MK III will finally have 'transformable' side toes.
Weapons. First, MK III indeed will be a "weapons specialist" of Autobots. He will have massive amount of fire power (Almost an overkill amount). Second, all weapons will be held together in both robot and alt mode… no lose parts.
LEDs. LED replacement for the head (from stock green to blue) and LED additions to headlights (chest light), bumper grills, and weapons.
Smart integration of MechTech Ports. I like the idea of MechTech ports but I don't like the how they just have holes all over the figure. Perhaps there is smart way to address this?
Paint. The paint job will mainly focus on the playability. I certainly do like the hyper detail super shiny (and super sensitive) paint work for the display. However, MK III will be created with 'everyday play' in mind. This means not only the paint job will be durable, but also very efficient so that no unnecessary paints in the area to rub off during transformation and/or normal play.
Any else is a go!!

Stay tuned~ update 1 is coming soon.

Thank you

Zebu

Mechanical Hangar (Autobot Hangar) Part 4

2011-08-13T04:55:00.001-07:00

More painting and detail updates....

1. Masked the floor to paint caution area.

2. Painted some plastic tubes to be added as the tanks and fuel holder for the hangar.

3. Here are some more updated photos. Detail update includes:
a. Painted plastic tubes installed to the back wall.
b. Weapon holder (made from Chain base parts) installed to the side wall.
c. Dribrushed scaffolding.
d. Installed hangar lift to side wall.
e. Installed utility power lines to back and side walls.

4. Let's end with few diorama shots (Optimus Prime was intruducted to this battle axe and gatling gun).

Thanks for reading~

Mechanical Hangar (Autobot Hangar) Part 3

2011-08-09T23:09:00.001-07:00

A quick update on Autobot Hangar..... (mainly painting hangar floor)

1. Added some more details. Namely added straws to be served as utility pipings.

2. Applied surfacer.

3. Small amount of Mr. Color Black on the edges of panel lines to create shadow and gradient effects later.

4. First coat using Mr. Color Steel.

5. Close up after second coat.

6. After some detail painting, washing, and sponging.

7. On to the side and back wall!

Thanks for reading~ More to follow.

Zebu

Mechanical Hangar (Autobot Hangar) Part 2

2011-08-08T11:56:00.000-07:00

Howdy!,

Here is quick update.

1. Soldered single LED and secured on to the Mechanical Chain #4 light fixture using epoxy.

2. Here are four work lights which, will luminate the hangar from the front/side. As you can see, they are quite exposed looking.

3. Next, using 2mm styrene strip, I've made protative guards and secured it using super glue. Here is finisned look after coloring it black.

4. A shot of hangar afer side/front work lights are installed.

5. Added more railing to the ceiling.

6. All lights are installed (total 20 bright white LEDs so far).

7. Final few shots. More to come! Thanks for reading.

-Zebu-

Mechanical Hangar (Autobot Hangar) Part 1

2011-08-07T08:20:00.000-07:00

Howdy!

I’ve always wanted to make mechanical hangar for my models and kits. The purpose of this hangar would be used as a background for photo shoot as well as the quick diorama base (i.e. repairing or maintenance scene).

Finally, watching the movie "Transformer: Dark of the Moon" inspired me to get on with it.

Logistics

1. Kotobukiya Model Support Goods (MSG) Mechanical Chain Base #4 x 4
http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-13
2. Kotobukiya Model Support Goods (MSG) Mechanical Chain Base #9 x 4
http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-18
3. Epoxy
4. LED Flash light (I used the one can came with 21 LEDs).
5. N scale straight pier girders (Local model train store).
6. Computer IC sockets (old cell phone or used ‘and broken’ computers).

Procedures

1. I used 4 mechanical chain base #9 to form the back wall and 4 mechanical chain base #4 to form the sides (two on each side).

2. Next, I took apart the LED flash light (*quick background story… I bought this LED flash light from a local yard sale. It was suppose to be water proof; owever, the O-rings were broken and it was no longer functional. I saw it as potentially usable 21 LEDs for less than $2. Not only LEDs were fine, I was able to reuse the battery compartment, and switch. Normally, 21 bright LEDs, battery compartment and the switch can be expensive.... Lesson learned folks: Don’t always buy “new stuff that are specifically designed for model kits” take a look around and there are plenty of reusable things for your models). I took out all LED lights from its circuit and cut them in sets of 3, 2, and 1. It is important to save the circuit board because it will save your work to having to solder them again later.

3. Next, I soldered the wires on to the LEDs and arranged/scured them using epoxy as shown below. I’ve used four, 3 set LEDs on the back row and just two, 2 set LEDs on the front row to create the back-light effect.

4. Next, I built a battery holder to fit my flash light battery compartment using some plastic sheets. I’ve attached old IC sockets at the end of the wires to be served as the plug for easy battery and switch installations.

5. Test shots after the initial installation. I found it bit cheesy looking to see the LEDs directly exposed..... so on to the next steps.

6. Next, I used N scale straight pier girders to decorate the top (In front of the LED lights). These will be used to hang maintenance equipments and etc.

7. Here are the results so far.

More to come folks~ Thanks for reading.

Zebu

Voyager Class Banzaitron (Custom Repaint)

2011-03-17T22:07:00.000-07:00

Introduction

New adventure!

I wanted to venture out to realm of awesomeness other than Gundam. So I decided to do a repaint of a transformer (TF) figures. I own decent size TF figures collections. I am not interested in old school ‘boxy’ G1 series (sorry) but very much into the movies series figures. I love their ‘mechanical’ appearances which, reminds me of Gundam like mechas (Macross, Armored Core, and Patlabor to name a few).

Now, for this project (well just a repaint), choosing the TF figure to repaint took the longest time. Once selected, the entire repaint was done in about 3 days (equal to about 8 hours of total airbrushing/dry brushing/weathering). So who the lucky winner?

I picked Voyager Class Banzaitron from “The Hunt for the Decepticon” release.

Tips on TF figure repaint

For those who are also thinking about repainting TF figures, I’ll make following recommendations:

1. Choose a figure that has the ugliest factory paint scheme - If the color scheme of the retail figure is bad, any improvement on the color scheme will look awesome!
2. Choose a figure that you can support logistically – for this project, I spend about $36 just on the painting supplies. TF figures takes a lot more paint than Gundam (I’ll explain why later) due to its “playability” nature.
3. Choose a figure that is easy (easier) to paint (and “modify” for that matter). Some TF figures are put together in a manner that will not allow you to paint or modify (MOD) without heavy reconstruction and/or rebuilding. Keep in mind that overall goal (for me at least) is that one should be able to play with the figure once it is completed. What fun is TF figure if it is so fragile after such repaint and/or reconstruction that it becomes “display only figure” and sits on a shelf somewhere?
4. Study the figure! Have a good idea what color scheme you want (draw it on a paper) and how it is put together from manufacturer (like the locations of pins and joints) and most importantly, how it transforms (note the area that will scratch and/or rub against each other). This way, you will know all the areas that need to address/paint so you have a figure that looks great both in robot and vehicle mode.
5. I find that unlike Gundam models, TF figures needed to be painted at least three times in three different poses/modes (Hence the high cost for paints). For this project, I painted it in the vehicle mode on the first day, robot mode the next day and finally in between mode (partially transformed) on the third day.
6. Finally, protect the paint job by applying good amount of TOP coats. I gave mine three layers each time it was dried (that is three coats per vehicle mode, robot mode, and in-between mode). When it was done, the paint job seemed to stay firm and won’t rub off (unless I use modeling knife to scrape it off of course. Normal play and transformation doesn’t seem to peel the paint job)

So at the end of the day, Hunt for the Decepticon Voyager Class Banzaitron fit the description perfectly. It has ugly factory color scheme, easy (easier than most) to paint, transformation is designed to have three distinctive modes, small enough not to use too much money on supplies, and most importantly, it is just fun to play with after it is completed.

Here are some before shot (from the Hasbro website) of figure.

Logistics

1. Voyager Class Banzaitron = $20 from wal-mart (You can get better deal from Toys R Us or other internet shops, $20 is most common price you’ll find from local retail stores).
2. Mr Color Metal Color – Stainless = $3.99
3. Mr. Color 70 - Dark Green (Flat/Tank) = $3.99
4. Mr. Color 39 - Dark Yellow (Sandy Yellow) (Flat/Tank) = $2.99
5. Mr. Color 41 - Red Brown (Flat/Tank) = $2.99
6. Mr. Color 185 - Super Flat Black (Flat/Primary) = $2.99
7. Mr Surfacer Spray 1000 = $7.99
8. Mr Color Thinner - 250ml - $10.99
9. And of course airbrush regular brush and other paint supplies.

WIP note and finished photos

Again, I can’t emphasize enough about the importance of pre-planning, multiple layer painting and attention to detail. All these will have great payoff once your model is done!

WIP Note:
1. I gave two coats of Mr. Surfacer 1000 in vehicle mode, robot mode, and in-between mode (as mentioned before, all painting scheme was done in all three modes and in 2-3 coats) to cover the entire ugly factory color scheme.
2. Next, 2-3 coats of Mr. Color 70 (Dark Green) for the base color.
3. Next, first patterns for the camouflage was added using Mr. Color 39 (Dark Yellow).
4. Next, Mr. Color 41 (Red Brown) was used to trace the camouflage pattern.
5. Next, Mr. Color 185 (Super flat black) was used to give some obvious black lines. One thing to note about making your own camouflage pattern is that good camouflage must have both subtle changes and obvious highlights. The main point is to break the silhouette of the object you want to camouflage (in this case,.. Tank) while giving something that sticks out (black highlights) to distract one from finding the original object against the background (again, in this case… a Tank!).
6. Using dry brush technique, use Mr. Color Metal (Stainless) to give the dull, exposed metal highlights.
7. Next, I hand brushed the details (small parts, tool mold on the surface, and the face of robot).
8. I used some weathering technique used for the Arctic Warfare Zaku to weather the figure.
9. Finally, 2-3 coats of Mr. Topcoats to seal the paints.

Here, we have some photos for the vehicle mode

Detail shots for the vehicle mode

Here, we have some photos for the robot mode

Detail shots for the robot mode

I’ll finish with some action pose~

Thanks for reading!

Zebu

Project Sinanju (Ver 1.0)

2011-03-14T12:29:00.000-07:00

Introduction

Howdy!

Needless to say..... I am back after a loooooong absence in the studio. I have yet another move ahead of me (Germany this time) so I wanted to finish MG Sinanju that I've been working on for awhile now.

You can find the photo review of model from dalong.net here

Logistics

Gunpla
1. MSN-06S MG Sinanju Ver. Ka from Hobbywave.com = $79.16

Detail parts
1. HQO metal detail parts (Energy tube) = $13 (from e-bay)

Paint and Misc. (All supplies were purchased from hobbywave.com)
1. Mr Color Super Metallic - Chrome Silver (SM 06) x 2 = $26
2. Mr Color Super Metallic – Iron x 1 = $12.99
3. Mr. Color 47 - Clear Red (Gloss/Primary) x 4 = $12
4. Mr. Color 109 - Character Yellow (Semi-Gloss/Primary) x 1 = $2.99
5. Testors Enamel: 1147 Gloss Black = $ 1.99
6. Mr. Surfacer 1000 x 1 = $11
7. Mr. Topcoat (Gloss) x = $10
8. Hand drill, Super glue, Gunpla Nipper, and other necessary tools

Kit review

This is a fantastic kit. However, Simple straight build does not bring out its true beauty because it has very decorative yellow (gold) emblems all over its body. In addition, Bandai released the titanium version (which is shiny metallic version of the same kit plus about $50 more expensive) but it is horrible because the spur marks show even more on the metallic coating kits.

Here are some before pictures.

Build Concept

There are so many Sinanju works out on the net. People have become very creative with this kit. I wanted to stay with basics, something that is very metallic (without ugly spur marks) with bright yellow highlight emblems. Lastly, I wanted to have some metal detail parts but not too much to be ridiculous. Overall, I wanted nice, “just out of the mobile suit hangar" look for this particular project.

Work In Progress/Complete

1. First thing I needed to do was sanding all outer armors. Sanding may not be necessary every time one paints the model but I wanted to make sure the surface is in perfect condition and have smooth surface for the metal paint application. After sanding, all external armor pieces were washed with light soapy water to remove dusty particals. After wash, all parts were air dried while resting on top of a towel.

2. Second, I primed all armors pieces using Mr. Surfacer 1000. This gave very clean and good surface for metallic paints to attach.

3. Next, I applied two coats of Mr Color Super Metallic - Chrome Silver (SM 06). This is fantastic paint (also very expensive) it literally made the plastic armors look as if it they were made out of chrome.

4. Finally I’ve applied two coats of Mr. Color Clear Red. This gives very shiny and strong red color with metallic look (metallic look is actually from the chrome under coat. The clear red is see through so the chrome is showing, creating the beautiful effect of shiny red metal look.)

5. The inner frame was also painted with Mr Color Super Metallic Iron. This gave “heavy and dark” feel to the frame. You can see the difference before and after (before pictures were obtained from dalong.net). You can also the see the difference in the metal tone between the leg and one of the armor pieces before it was painted with clear red.

6. Here are finished shots. All emblems were done using washing method. There are three steps to the method. First, painted all parts with Mr. Color 109 - Character Yellow (Semi-Gloss/Primary). Second, cover the entire piece using black enamel paint. Third, wash (clean) the “would be” yellow area with enamel thinner to reveal the emblems.

Well, that's all! Thanks for looking.

Zebu

Gunpla videos on youtube.

2009-01-18T16:01:00.000-08:00

Howdy!

I am about to move and things has been crazy! (Thus, no new works/posts lately). However, I wanted to post some useful gunplay videos I found on youtube.com. Yes there are many many gunplay videos on youtube. However, not all are useful.

Below are some videos I found useful for those who wish to learn more about the basics of Gunpla (IMO). Enjoy.

1. BAKUC - How to build GUNPLA (Part One)
(For those of you who does not know what "BAKUC" is). Bandai Action Kits Universal Cup (BAKUC) is an awesome place to go to get "inspired" and/or see some great works.

Anyways here is the video about "How to build GUNPLA" by BAKUC (However, video maybe not be uploaded by BAKUC) Anyways, I'll shut up for now... check out these videos.

I will be able to do some more gunpla once I settle in my new place (Probably mid-end FEB 09)

Thanks

Zebu

Bandai 1/72 VF-25S Part 3 of 3

2008-12-10T18:10:00.001-08:00

Howdy!

VF-25S poject is DONE!

Well, actual model wa done as of part 2 of this post. On this post, I will work on custome make base for VF-25S.

Background information

This mecha is used predominately in the space (in animation series). Thus, I wanted to create "moon surface" like base (with crater and all). Also, I wanted to incorporate Bandai Action Base 1 so it can display the model properly. O.K enough talk, checkout the WIP photos below.

The Base

I used ¾ inched thick plywood as the base of this construction. The dimension was 7.5 inches wide by 10.5 inches long (It was odd dimensions indeed. However worked with Bandai Action Base 1 I incorporated in to the base).

Next, I displayed model with Bandai Action Base 1 and adjust the location on the plywood board.

Next, secured the Bandai Action Base 1 on the plywood board, and plug all the holes with some rolled up cottons. Then I used aluminum foils to fill in the space around the action base.

Next, I used “Rigid Wrap: Plaster Cloth” from Michael’s Art Store to cover the foil and shape the terrain features. Same technique was used in my previous custom made base for my Arctic Warfare Zaku project HERE. *Note* I placed some circular boundaries around some holes to ensure I get some crates in the finished product.

Next I broke some volcanic rocks I got from various trips I took from past to get some “rock powders” that will create the effect/texture of “moon surface”.

Next, I used some “Liquitex: Black Lava texture gel” from Micheals Art Store to shape and form the details of terrain. Then I sprinked the "rock powders".

After it has been dried, I pulled off the cotton balls and gave it a base coat of dark grey.

Next, I applied second layer of " texture gel followed by final sprinkles of "rock powders" and boulders.

O.K, DONE! Here are some photos of finished product.

Thanks for reading!!

Zebu

Bandai 1/72 VF-25S Part 2 of 3

2008-12-05T19:45:00.000-08:00

Howdy!

Applying sticker on VF-25S is not hard. However, I wanted to be able to transform between modes without worrying about them coming off…

Red circles indicate some area that will most likely rub off during transformation.

Now, Lets look at the red circle area below. I decide to go crazy and use CRAZY GLUE to strengthen the stickers. Yellow arrow indicates the location where I applied very VERY little amount of super (crazy) glue.

Next, I cut the sticker by the red lines so that it won't get rubbed off during transformation.

Next three shots will show how the area below the wing hinge is now free from being rubbed off.

Same method was used at the tip of tail fins (?)

1. Super glue drop

2. cut off the excess sticker (red line)

All the edges in the red circle were treated with same techinique. After several transformations, I am happy to inform you that all the stickers are still intact. I plan to file it down smooth and apply top coat. I hope that will eliminate the glue marks.

Here are some finished shots before weathering.

Basically, you don't have to go any further with the model and just finish it with the seal and call it a day. However, I wanted to put some weatering effects on it.

Many asked me about weathering techniques. In my opinion, "weathering techinique" can be very subjective argument (in other words, do as YOU please). I went for a "light weathering" without any physical alteration to the kit (i.e. battle damage).

There are several weathering techiqnues I used in the past. These were:

1. Weathering pen

2. Pastel

3. Tamiya Weathering kit

4. Enamel wash

I used weathering kit on this model (I got them from E-bay, search "weathering kit").

Very easy to do. It kinda reminds you of make-up kit.

*Important: Don't go crazy with the weathering kit. Apply very light amount. Lighter the better. If you can barely tell that it is on, then it will look more natural.

Here are some finished shots.

So that's it! I am done with VF-25S. On Part 3 VF-25S, I will post some more photos and about custom made base (Nothing fancy, probably similar to one I made for my "Arctic Warfare Zaku".)

Thanks for reading.

Zebu

Bandai 1/72 VF-25S Part 1 of 3

2008-12-02T17:09:00.000-08:00

Howdy,

My next build was Bandai 1/72 VF-25S.

Introduction
Along with Gundam animation series, I am a huge fan of Macross animation series. Thus, 1/72 VF-25S model kit release by Bandai was a dream come true.

About the kit
Since there are many great photo reviews on the internet already on this kit so I will NOT go in to that. Please go following site for detail review.

1. You can find the photo review by dalong HERE.
2. You can find building in progress photos HERE.
3. You can find out of the box review HERE.

Quick glance

Now, after looking at some above references, I made following notes.
1. There are some discrepancies of color scheme (indicated by the red arrows in the photo, these parts are regular grey in the kit. They should be lighter grey.)

2. Despite my concerns, the color separation for the head is excellent.

3. Head include some cool gimmicks (Would be “jaw lines” fold so the head fits behind the cockpit area)

4. The clear part in front of the fighter (below, forward) is still covered by light purple sticker. This part (and canopy) will need some clear coatings.

5. Panel line fill and sticker application are must (check out the straight build without any panel lines and stickers applied YUCK!!! )

6. As all Bandai kits (normal release version) it has semi gloss look that make the model seem very plasticky (to me at least) a subdued, matted finish would give much “heavier” look.

The Plan
Here are some works/touch ups (well, these should not even be considered “WORKS” since it will not require that much of skill…. All I will need is some easy to get equipments/supply, attention to detail and lots of patient/time. SO let’s call it a “touch-up”.)

1. Prep kit by filling in the panel lines and applying light coats of clear spray paints.
2. Paint (air brush) three locations mentioned above to match the color scheme.
3. Add some texture on the canopy (Experimental technique).
4. Apply stickers and secure it with some super glue.
5. Apply weathering
6. Finish by applying sealer.

Work-in-progress

1. Kit preparation- Panel lines: People asked me a lot regarding panel line filling.
There are several options on panel linings. You can:
a) use very thin enamel and use osmoses to fill in the lines.
b) use gundam marker and rub off the excess ink.
c) use pastel and/or weathering kit/powder to brush in the panel line and remove excess dusts.

I used gundam marker method because I am most comfortable with this method and (for me) it is relatively easy to fix any mistakes I may (and always does) make.

Supply lists:
- Gundam Marker from HERE (I know it says sold out here but you can get them anywhere including e-bay. I got the one that says “GM01” Black)
- Baby oil
-Cotton swab
- Mini cotton pads
-Regular eraser
-My thumb!

Technique: Basic idea is truly logical so DON’T let it scare you!!! You just fill in the line with the pen, and rub off and/or erase the excess ink. I say excess ink because the tip of gundam marker is much thicker than most panel lines of VF-25S. Also, I draw in Panel lines while parts are still attached to spur. I find it easy to work (better control of parts) and review to ensure I haven’t missed any lines.

Steps/tips
1). Draw in small portion of panel line (use about the same amount pressure as when you write)

2). Coat your thumb with very small amount of baby oil. Again, the “operative words” are VERY SMALL AMOUNT!! Simply put some baby oil on your thumb and wipe it off with cotton pads so you can barely tell that there are oils on your thumb.

3). Rub off excess ink with your thumb. Always rub off perpendicular (90 degree in angle) to the line so that you don’t rub off the actual panel line. Also, I believe Gundam marker ink is oil-based ink (Contrary to popular claim that it is water-based) because it is very easily removed with you use baby oil. If you try to rub it off by good ol’ “spit and rub” technique, you’ll find it much harder and I truly believe that it is the “vigorous rubbing” action that is removing the ink, NOT the spit (water-based) .

4) Erase/ wipe off the area that because discolored due to spread of excess ink (Honestly, this rarely happens. However, it will be noticed when you are done if you let it pass).

5) If you have made a mistake, then use baby oil to remove the mistake and redo (or use your thumb).
6) For hard to reach area, use either cotton swab and/or rolled up cotton pad to remove excess ink.
7) Wash your thumb frequently to keep inks from spreading back to the kit.

8) Final thought. SLOW THE HELL DOWN!!!!! Keep in mind that this WILL take all day (6-8 hours, first time). You can try to be all “high speed” and rush this but I found that when I work more than one inch at a time, the Gundam marker ink dried too fast and lines looked all messy. But, that’s it for my two cents. Here are some comparision shots.

1. Kit preparation- subdued looks.
This is very simple 10 minute process to improve your kit’s plasticky looks (However, that is entirely my opinion. If you like the glossy look of the kit, then skip this step).

I use “Kryon Matte Finish” on my models to give that subdued/heavy feel. I got mine from Wal-mart for $2.99. You can get detail information about this spray Here

Two positive effects for doing this (IMHO) are 1). You model look great!! Well, obviously..LOL 2).In many cases, it makes the joints tighter so models seem to pose well (In VF-25S case, parts hold together pretty tight in the fighter mode… no more loose hips and legs… LOL that sounded like something else).

2. Paint
Although, I prefer brush painting on many Gundam models, I wanted to use my airbrush on this kit because very little masking was needed (I hate masking!!! I rather gouge my eyes out and fry them then to mask the entire model kits for air brushing!!! Especially big kits like Perfect Grade Gundam Models…LOL).

For masking I cheated a bit. I used regular making tape to cover the larger parts but I also used pre-cut, 1mm/2mm masking tape (Mr. Finely Slit Masking Sheets) I bought from hobbywave (Link HERE).

After that, I applied Mr Surfacer Spray 1000 (http://www.hobbywave.com/modeling_supplies/sprays/mr-surfacer-spray-1000-large.html) and airbrushed the area noted above. One tricky thing was matching the color scheme. The part needed to be paint is NOT white. They are light grey. Based on the manual, it is about 80% white 20% grey but after doing this, I think it will be better if proportion is 85% white and 15% grey (However, the difference is barely noticed).

3. Canopy and other clear parts
I worked on these clear parts for the kit. 1). Sensors located at the nose area of fighter (normally treated by purple stickers eww~) 2). Two canopy parts.

For these parts, I used two techniques I been working on. First is called “Dunking method” (yes I named it so I doubt you may find others calling it by the same name).
I used this technique before when I wanted a very light and transparent look on clear part. The concept behind it is same as when you dye white T-shirt. Let me explain…. LOL. When you dye T-shirt the ol’ school way, one should dunk white T-shirt in desire Dye (darker then desired color) then wash it to take out excess Dye… Right? I used the same concept there. The sensors are purple color. So I mixed some enamel to make desired purple shade then added enough thinner to consistency of water. Then I dunked the clear color parts, let it dry for 30 seconds, then place then in clear thinner to wash out until desired purple shade come out.

I like this method better than using “Clear Enamel” because I don’t have to worry about any streak marks (from the brush) and it is very evenly applied.

The second technique I used required basically dissolving the clear parts to give semi-clear look. I didn’t particularly like the fact that canopies of VF-25 were all clear parts in the animation. I figured that these canopies would act as a 360 degree monitors when it becomes the Robot mode, thus would have rough texture due to all the LCD and sensor parts embedded in the glasses itself (again just my personal opinion).

Anyways, in order to recreate that rough surface look, one can scratch the surface of clear parts on until desired look is accomplished (DUMBASS WAY TO DO, because it will never be evenly scratched) or use solvent to evenly dissolve the clear part until it loose its clear character and obtain semi-clear/rough textures.

I used “Goof-off” http://www.goof-off.com/ to accomplish this. PLEASE BECAREFUL when you/if you use this product. This is an ultimate stain remover. This contains Xylene, Methanol, and Ethanol 2 (2-Methoxyethoxy); (Diethylene glycol monomethyl ether.) and extremely flammable. Plus this WILL DISSOLVE YOUR ENTIRE MODEL if you let it. But this is very cheap to buy and wildly available. I got mine from Wal-mart for less than $5.

I applied “goof-off” to clear part using brush then washed the part with enamel thinner once it start to dissolve the parts (no more than 30 seconds). Finally I’ve masked the canopy to paint the frame.

Well, this is for now. I will discuss sticker and weathering techniques on part 2.

Thanks for reading..

Zebu

MG Turn A Gundam

2008-11-27T07:21:00.001-08:00

Howdy!!

I’ve been real busy lately and preparing to move (In JAN 09).
Anyways, my next project (although it was too simple to be called “Project”), was MG Turn A Gundam.

Introduction

It is not my favorite Gundam Series and I've never intent to buy the kit until now. However, I am planning on building “1/72 Bandai VF-25 kit series” from “Macross Frontier” in near future and needed to do some more practice on panel line filling.....Ergo, "most panel line rich" MG Gundam kit ever made, I present Turn A Gundam!!

About the Kit

Once again, detailed model kit review can be found at dalong.net so I won't go in to that. I do, however, want to mention that this is a "beautiful" kit. The impression I had for this mobil suit changed 180 degree after completion. This kit embrace both rigidness of sci-fi mecha and curvatures/fluidity of animation mecha. Simply put, this looks like it literally jumped out of the animation.

Works

Now, after all that praise, does this kit lack any fault? Well, far from it. Check out the stright build pictures from dalong.net

As you can see, the stright build of this model kit looks a lot different from the finished model by other builders and/or concept arts that you may find on the internet. The main reason is that this kit has massive amount of panel lines that must be filled in in order to achieve its "authentic" looks. and... there are many many many panel lines to be filled (Great practice for those who wish to get some nice/tricky/advance panel line fillings).

Another reason for its very "toy-like" apperance is due to bandai's glossy finishing of the kit. Please review see the spur (runner) shots below dalong.net for reference.

I did two things to remedy the looks.

1. Filled in the panel lines (well, obviously). I like to fill in the panel lines stright on to the parts while these are still on the runners. This way I can ensure ALL panel lines are filled and don't have to worry about having to take the model apart to fill in the panel lines.

2. I used the same technique I used for my MG Destiny Gundam project to attain the model's very subdued/none glossy/plastic-like look.

Here are some close-up shots

See the shield looks like the surface of egg shell now (instead of shiny plactic cover) NICE~

Completion

I decided not to apply any decal for this model because it is just that pretty without any addtional detailing. Enjoy!!

-Zebu-

ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam -Completed-

2008-10-18T16:58:00.000-07:00

Howdy!!

ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam is done.
I'll let the photos speak for themselves (Click to view larger photo).

Thanks for looking!!

Zebu

ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam -Work-In-Progress-

2008-10-17T17:28:00.000-07:00

Introduction

Howdy!

My next project (1 OCT to 11 OCT) was "ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam". Some asked me if I paint my models every time… well it depends. I do paint my gunpla if I have color scheme in mind. However, I believe it is not necessary to repaint the model kit for repaint sake especially if the original color scheme of model kit is good enough.

Here I’ve worked on "ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam" with partial painting (brush) and detailing to produce very “presentable” display item. Enjoy!

Logistics

Gunpla
1. ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam normal version from Hobbywave = $52.95

Detail parts
1. Silver plated Jewelry Connection from J.C moore = $2
2. Stainless Steel balls 0.7mm = $5.99
3. Metal Screw Pins = $4.99
4. Gunpla Temple Metal Detail kit ER + SC = $13.95
5. Gunpla Temple Metal Detail Kit T5 = $13.95

Paint and Misc.
1. Testors Enamel: 1180 Steel = $1.99
2. Testors Enamel: 1146 Silver = $1.99
3. Testors Enamel: 1151 Copper = $1.99
4. Testors Enamel: 1144 Gold = $ 1.99
5. Perl EX pigments: 663 Silver = $4.99
6. Hand drill, Super glue, Gunpla Nipper, and other necessary tools

Kit Review
ZGMF-X42S Destiny Gundam is a great kit. Pictures below from dalong.net shows straight build of the kit (no paint, sticker/decal, panel line and/or paint) and detail of inner frame.

Paint

While I did like the original paint scheme of Destiny Gundam, I did not like the fact that it was very glossy (Miserable fact of most plastic injection kits…. It is plasticky).

For most people, this very fact would cause them to repaint the kit to give very flat color as shown here in HG 1/100 Destiny Gundam by Japanese modeler. Well, the good news is that you can achieve this flat color feel without painting by applying some Krylon" Matte finish sealer (Shown in my earlier Zaku 205: Arctic Warfare post). I used same technique I utilized to repaint the inner frame of Strike Freedom Gundam.

Here are the detail shots of the parts after sealer has been applied.

*Important Tip*

1. Draw in ALL PANEL LINES before applying the seal!!!

2. Apply 2-3 light coats rather than one heavy coats of sealer.

Here is comparison shot of wing unit with and without the seal coats (Click to view larger photo).

*Useful Tip*

Use zip lock bag and place all parts with label. This will save tone of time later (especially when you have to figure out parts for left and right).

Inner Frame Paint/Detailing

Destiny Gundam has very detailed inner frame.

*Useful Tip*
Examine the frame thoroughly and make note regarding joints/parts/location that requires special attention when painting (i.e. location where paint would likely cause mobility issues and/or paint that will be scratched away due to joint movements).

I used "Dry brush" technique using misture of Testors Enamel: 1180 and Perl EX pigments: 663 Silver.

Here are some detail shots

Note how it really gave the "Metal feel".
Next I added additional detail painting using Testors Enamel: 1151 Copper.

Next, I brush painted the Hydraulics located on the ankle with Testors Enamel: 1146 Silver and Testors Enamel: 1144 Gold.

Next, I brush painted the Calf Thruster with red and sliver.

Here are some finished inner frame shots.

Detailing

I got a pack of “Silver plated Jewelry Connection” from J.C Moore art store. These are about 2mm in diameter and perfect to give metal Thruster look all over gunpla.

Of course I had to enhance Destiny Gundam's unique hand beam :)

Wing unit Paint/Detailing

I used Metal Detail Kit T5 from Gunpla Temple (purchased from hobbywave.com) to upgrade the burner on the Wing Unit.

Next, I painted the missing details on the wing (Grey and sliver for the wing thrusters).

Next were the wing Hydraulics.

And Wing vent units (I think these are the vent unit....)

Wing unit painting is done!!!

Now, I added some more detail parts to enhance the look. Here, I used metal screws to give more "mechanical looks"

Here, I tried something new.

I drilled some holes on the part above the Wing Burners to give some "Gundam Evolve" look :)

Finally (for wing unit at least) I added some 0.7 mm Steel balls on the wing (near the spur marks) for some added fun.

Weapon Paint/Detailing

I did two simple brush paitings for the gaint sword unit.

1. Applied silver on the blade

2. Applied white highlights on the beam saber.

I noticed some obvious details were missing from the original kits weapon system so I used Metal Detail kit ER + SC from Gunpla Temple (purchased from hobbywave.com) at the location (red circle).

Body Paint/Detailing

I first brush painted the pilot as directed in the manual.

Finally (for real), I applied the metal detail parts to the body.

*Note*

I also drilled right below the Calf thrusters (same as the ones done for the Wing Unit) to add that "evolve" look.

The Decal/sticker and VERY LIGHT weathering was applied as the last step.

The finished/action shots will be posted later.

Thanks for reading!!!

Zebu

DESTINY IS COMING....!!!!!

2008-10-16T07:36:00.001-07:00

Strike Freedom Gundam Repaint (Update 03)

2008-10-07T19:34:00.001-07:00

Howdy!!

Here is the latest Strike Freedom Gundam Repaint.
I have finished painting the SFG but needed to resolve one issue. Check out the pictures below.
Notice anything?

As you can see above, it turned out way too "glossy". Since I want my gundams to look like they been through some battles, I needed to turn this "glossy" look to "flat" look. Again, I used "Krylon" Matte Finish to seal and "flatten" the "glossy" looks.

Here are the results.

Below are the parts that were repainted.

Now, here are some current progress photos. I will add panel line, decal/stickers, weathering, and detailing.....(wow I still got a lot to do)

Thanks and Enjoy!

Zebu

Strike Freedom Gundam Repaint (Update 02)

2008-10-01T04:06:00.000-07:00

Howdy!

Here are some updates (well more like tip for people who are new to gunpla) for "White Strike Freedom".

Here, I am showing how to eliminate the gaps between parts.
Above picture show the gaps between parts of "wing unit" of SFG.

I used super glue (plastic cement will also do) to close the gaps, notice the excess glue marks between the parts?

Finally, I sanded the excess glue to smooth out the gaps. Don't worry about the "whiteness" cause by sanding. It can simply be painted over.

Now, here are very cheap way to make your own "part holder" for painting gunpla. You can get fancy clip and/or holders like these. The issue I have using this kind of "fancy" stuff is that these are just too darn expensive..... a set (dozen,.. if you are lucky) may cost you between 20-40 bucks.

I'd say that's too much for someone who is new to this. So here is alternative solution... DO YOU LIKE SHISH KABOB? You can get 100 bamboo skewers from wal-mart for less than $2. These are excellent choice as holder. Now, as far as clips are concern.....

HandiTAK!! This is also about $2 at any office supply store. I prefer this over clip because it can hold the smallest parts and customized to hold those "weird and odd" shaped parts.

Finally, the base of holder.....

I got those floral styrofoam from wal-mart. It cost me about $.90.
Now, I have gunpla part clip and holder for $4.90. Now, that!! is affortable!

Here is how I used to paint the SFG.

Thanks for reading!

Zebu

Strike Freedom Gundam Repaint (Update 01)

2008-09-28T04:59:00.000-07:00

Howdy!

Well, my commission for Destiny Gundam didn't go through. What means, now I have time to work on "Strike Freedom Gundam Repaint" YEAH!

Also, I wanted to introduce one Japanese pro modeler's websites. Japanese modelers go far beyond my imagination in working/customizing gunpla models this person will cause some "jaw- dropping reaction"

His name is "Keita" and you can check out his works here

I want to copy (yes! I said it, I WILL COPY) one of his color scheme for Strike Freedom Gundam (Here). It's been done by someone else (yes someone else already copied it LOL) but it’s just too cool not to try it myself.Well, wish me good luck and check me in few days for newly painted SFG!!

Zebu

Strike Freedom Gundam Repaint (Incomplete)

2008-09-23T17:32:00.000-07:00

Howdy!!

In this post, I will discuss the difference between

1. MG Strike Freedom Gundam (SFG)
http://www.hobbywave.com/plastic_models/gundam/mg/mg_strike_freedom_gundam.html

2. MG Strike Freedom Gundam Special Version (Special SFG)
http://www.hobbywave.com/plastic_models/gundam/mg/mg-strike-freedom-gundam-special-version.html

Now, one obvious difference is the price (about $20). But nearly 73 bucks for MG gundam??
What is the difference indeed?

I am using photos some from dalong.net as reference. Plus I took some photos of my own for your viewing pleasure.

First difference is that the Special SFG will come with extra stand so you can do this!

Second difference is the inner frame of Special SFG is gold plated so that you can enjoy the awesome, "anime-like", sparkly gold frame views!!! (well supposely).... but wait a minute..:( ?

Above two runners are the only gold plated runners...... something is wrong here! Let me see..

Here is a front and back frame shots of Special SFG. Notice something?

How about now?

Indicated in red circles above are ALL AREA that are gold plated for the gundam's main frame. Rest of the gold plated runners are used in the wing (I'll talk about that later)

So these are it? Not the whole body frame?.... that's sad.

Due to uneven-ness of gold plated parts, Special SFG present these following gold color schemes..some are gold plated, some are not.... to me that is a deal breaker (These none-gold plated frame color looks the same as the color of runny-poo my dogs create when they are sick! LOL)

Even on the wingframs?!!!! Oh no!!

Legs too (runny, yellow poo!! BOO)

Arms also....

Finally, there are some urgly cut marks (from cutting the gold plated parts from the tree).

Now, enough with the negative talks. What will I do to address this..? Well to me, the answer was "Krylon Spray Paint: Metallic Brilliant Gold" from wal-mart!... If you do this, please make sure that spray paint is safe for the plastic, other wise your gundam WILL FALL APART!

First, I cut out all the runners of SFG (normal version) and secured them on the cardboard using masking tapes (Also, I took the photos below so that I can easily find them later. Also, noticed how yellow these original parts are? Click for the larger photos).

Next, I gave two light coats to cover the parts (Both front and back). When you do this, make sure it is light (I mean "LIGHT" applications, keep them about a foot away from the parts, then just go side to side fast so that there are no dripping of paints on the parts. If you do, some of the frame details will be covered by it) applications.

It turned out vey nicely (This is practically same as airbrushing). Click to view larger pictures.

Here are some frame shots of "SFG: Zebu's Special Version" lol.

Improvements
1. Gold plated frame
2. Very evenly painted (no irregularity)
3. Gold plated parts are (in my opinion of course) not as bright, but definately not that yellowish ugly poo color of normal SFG.

Sustained from Normal SFG
1. No extra stand to do that cool action shot display.
2. ALL mobility preserved. Paint job did NOT altered the mobility.

*Note: Except for the last photo, I did not change any brightness and/or contrast of the photos so what you see is pretty much what it look under normal desktop lamp light. Click to view larger photos.

Pretty isn't it?

Thanks for reading!!

Zebu

Project Arctic Warfare Zaku: 205 (AWZ: 205) Part 4 of 4

2008-09-21T11:51:00.001-07:00

Howdy!

The project Arctic Warfare Zaku: 205 is finally done!

In this project I:
1. Painted the inner frame.
2. Added "battle damaged" and "heavy weathering" effects.
3. Added metal studs on the body and rhinestones for the mono eye of AWZ.
4. Built the diorama base (Scratch build).

Click on the picture to see it larger :)

Enjoy...

Thanks for reading!

Zebu

Project Arctic Warfare Zaku: 205 (AWZ: 205) Part 3 of 4

2008-09-19T20:07:00.000-07:00

Howdy,

AWZ 205: part 3 of 4 here.
I will discuss some very cool and very cheap ways to add details on gunpla models.

A. First I used "Krylon" Matte Finish to seal the paints and diorama base. You can use the seal made specially for plastic model (More expensive). For me, this worked just as well as the expensive ones. Plus, I can get this from Wal-mart.

B. Second, I used "Iron-on Rhinestones & studs" for mono eye of AWZ:205 and scope lense. I know it may sound crazy but it works great. This also can be obtained from your local Wal-mart.
C. Third, I also used "Iron-on studs". See close-up photos below. Width of rhinestones (left) range from 3mm to about 7 mm so these are perfect for mono eyes of Zaku and scopes of bazookas. The studs (right) are about 2-3 mm.

So, lets get to it. Below is the head of AWZ:205. I did not like the traditional "pink sticker over the clear plastic part" for mono eye idea.

Installation is fairly easy.

1. Take out the clear mono eye part and file it down to about depth of "Iron on Rhinestones" to make space for the rhinestone.
2. Simply glue the rhinestone on to the clear mono eye.

After installation.

As you can see below, mono eye is completely functional and reflects the light.

Before and after shot. Sorry for the poor lighting. click to see this as larger pic.

Next is the installation of metal stud. Installing the metal stud gives the look of metal pin holding in the armor plates in place.

First, I used dremel tools to grind the location.
Second, glue the studs.

Here are some tips. When you do this, make sure that the locations of studs are believable. Also, use minimal number of studs and rhinestones to keep your models from looking...say "pretty" LOL.

Thanks for reading.

I hope to finish this project in near future and post the final post ( part 4 of 4) in few days.

Zebu

Project Arctic Warfare Zaku: 205 (AWZ: 205) Part 2 of 4

2008-09-16T17:06:00.000-07:00

Howdy,

This is part 2 of 4, "Project Arctic Warfare Zaku (AWZ: 205)". On this post, I will show how to finish the base.

The base was left in "basic grey" color at the end of previous post. Here, I used “Liquitex: Black Lava texture gel” to shape and form the details of terrain.

This is what it looks once it was dried.

I fitted AWZ’s feet to bring out the realism of “snow and mud slush” as stumble through the terrain.

Next, I colored the base. Here are some tips for coloring the base. First, think about the logical order of dirt in the cross section. In my mind, the darkest part of the soil would be the deepest and the top most layer. Then there would be some lighter brown colors and perhaps little bit of green on top. This is just what I imagine in my head. You can use your own ideas…. The important thing to remember is that the order you want (think it should be) should be the order you color the base. So in this base, I colored the whole thing with black. Then I added the layers of highlights going from dark brown to two shades of light brown. Then I touched up the surface with bit of green.

Next, the fun part! Here I added "pre-made" snow pack I got from local model train store. It was called "Hudson & Allen Studio: Snow". It was only $8.99 and I used about 1/10 of it making the base so it was a great buy.

It was applied with water & glue (elmer's) as a paste like consistancy. First, I applied these "snow paste" to hard-to-reach area and also the locations where AWZ's feet would step. This will accomplish "old and packed-in" snow look.

Done!

I could've stop here but I wanted to show one more techniques. This will accomplish the look of "fresh" snow. First, I mixed elmer's glue with some water. Then I applied all over the base. Finally I "sprinkled" the same "snow mixture". This will secure any lose snows on top of the base.

Here are some close up shots of the base with Zaku.

Thanks for reading.
AWZ:205 part 3 of 4 will be up soon.

Zebu

Project Arctic Warfare Zaku: 205 (AWZ: 205) Part 1 of 4

2008-09-13T06:31:00.001-07:00

Prologue………………

Howdy,

It is hot as heck here in Georgia. I miss cold weather these days. In fact, I miss it so bad that I decided to do a diorama of Zeku that fits the idea of “Cold Climate”. Thus, the project “Arctic Warfare Zaku (AWZ: 205)” was initiated.

Obviously, diorama featured some snow and cold climate theme. However, since this was my first diorama post (not first diorama though), I documented most techniques I used in-depth (mostly borrowed and/or learned by reading other gunpla modeler’s websites. I did my best to put the link to websites where I found the information so you don’t have to search for them). Also, all techniques used in “AWZ: 205” are bit more exaggerated so that all who wish to see the result of a given technique can see it easily.

My concept of operation is “very simple (Cheap is more like it) and practical gunpla” without burning a hole in my wallet. I try to utilize items and materials that are easily obtainable in local stores (thus, cheaper) and not to use stuffs that are too unique in nature that they can only be obtained from special modeling store via mail. Keep that in mind when you read this… I hope some of you find this post useful.

Background theme:

23 January 0081 U.C, It was the most vicious winter battle indeed; No one thought that the fire power of remnant Zeon forces can deliver such devastating ambush. When Lt. Thomson from the Charlie Company (C. CO), 205th Arctic Warfare Zaku Mobile Suite Battalion (AWZ: 205 MS-BN) regained his conscious, there was a dead silence over his radio channel… It was only matter of time before Lt. Thomson realized that his AWZ was the only functional mobile suit within the vicinity. He anxiously ran system check to assess his AWZ’s combat capability. Luckily, His AWZ seemed to retain 80%mobility despite the heavy damage it took on its leg modules. His only objective now is to locate and link up with this lost Unit………..

Introduction:

I did some image search (Thank you google!) for good arctic warfare scenes.

The base model for this diorama was MS-06F2 Zaku II F2: EFSF I got from hobbywave.com for about $30. I got some great “before shot” from dalong.net. Dalong.net is a Korean Gunpla review website. Although it is in Korean, it still is a great site for any gunpla modeler to checkout because website is organized in logical ways (all models are organized by PG/MG/HGUC/SEED/OO and etc..).

Also, most (about 99%) of model photos are just straight build with panel lines and decals applied only. Since there are no other painting and/or modification applied to models, one may get a great idea what the gunpla would look alike as a base model before purchasing the model kit.

MS-06F2 Zaku II F2: EFSF has fair amount of internal frame, details, and great potential to carry a look of “Heavy Armored vehicle”. I built the model kit according to manual and applied panel lines before starting any mod (No decal/stickers applied yet). Now on to the modification..

Work in progress:

First, all external surface (armors and weapons) were prepared for weathering and painting. The original model kit had semi glossy look. Also there were too many unsightly spur marks (definition of “spur marks” can be found here). Sanding is very necessary and easy way to even out the surface of original model.

Next, I covered the power lines with Teflon tape to give its added cold climate protection look (kinds like when we put insulations around the water pipe in winter time) .

Here are few before shots of internal frames.

Internal frames are then dry brushed (in-depth explanations here) to give its “metallic” look. I added some “Perl Ex pigments: 655 super copper” with “Testors Enamel: 1180 Steel“ from Michael’s Art Store.

There are many opinions regarding painting using regular paint brush vs airbrush. It is widely accepted that using regular paint brush will cause brush stroke marks, resulting tacky paint job. Well you’d be the judge of that after seeing some photos below. In order to keep with my concept of operation (cheap), I used regular paint brush (I do own air brush though) for this diorama. You can see in next two photos that using regular brush can have great outcome if you are willing to apply multiple coats. The major key points when using regular brush are…
1. Use less paint (Enamel in this case).
2. Apply multiple coats.
Personally, I think this came out nicely. There were few of brush stroke marks but since this model is for battle damaged diorama, I figured it was acceptable.

Next, I added some detail painting using “Testors Enamel: 1151 Copper“.
A: Two coats of dry brushed, “steel” base.
B: Added detail painting using “Testeors Enamel: 1151 Copper”.

Front and back of body.

Chair of cockpit painted by applying glossy brown base cost and flat black highlights.

Also notice how evenly paint (metallic part) has been applied throughout the surface (no brush marks here!). A: Original back pack.
B: Dry brushed two coats of “Testors Enamel: 1180 Steel“.
C: Applied detail painting using “Testeors Enamel: 1151 Copper”.
D: Finished back pack.
F: I used “Testeors Enamel: 1146 Silver” for the thrusters.

Meet Lt. Jacob L. Thomson. He is wearing "winter camouflage" uniform (Well, I painted the pilot figure that came with the model kit as you can probably tell). I used flat grey as the base coat, and then added detail using black and white enamel.

Here is finished internal frame. Before and after shot of internal frame.

I worked on the base for the diorama while AWZ 205 was drying. A: 5” X 7” Value rectangular plaque I got from Wal-mart served me well as the perfect base for diorama. There were two advantage of using this plaque.

1. It was bit small so it cost less to decorate. 2. It was only 79 cents!

B: I experimented with basic terrain features using aluminum foils. I wanted to give a feel where one of AWZ’s feet were being slide under him.

C: I used “Rigid Wrap: Plaster Cloth” from Michael’s Art Store to cover the foil and shape the terrain features.

D: Draft base.

Here I tried to determine the “fitting” of model on the base.

Luckily, it seemed to fit nicely. Otherwise, I would’ve just added more plaster cloth to shape the base. Here are more shots indicating the “fitting” of AWZ’s feet on the base.

Here I used Acrylic paints from (guess where?) Michael’s Art Store to cover up the base. Even grey tone is very nice base coat for dark themed diorama. (The terrain will be snow covered field with muddy under sludge showing in the final product). Base coat application was done!

While base stand was being dried, I applied decals/stickers to AWZ.

Next, I used pencil to draw in some battle damage mark. As I mentioned in the prolog of this project, all techniques used in “AWZ: 205” are bit more exaggerated so that all who wish to see the result of a given technique can see it easily.

I personally believe that battle damage should not be overly done. But I wanted to show some different effects for those of you who want to see various techniques without scarifying your own model kit.

Hare are some key points.

1. Be modest.

2. Don’t be afraid of messing up (after all, you ARE messing your kit up, hence the term “battle damage”)

3. Try to do some research on how a projectile would move through an object and see if you can express it.

4. Practice, practice, practice!! Experiment on other plastic objects such as yogurt container, pudding cup, and Tupperware.

Here are some photos that will make some of you cringe…LOL! Most of the “Battle Damage” was done using model knife. However, some of the heavy damage was done using dremel rotary tool. All parts were sanded down again.

Again, the “Battle damage” marks were only superficial and did not interfere with original model’s functionality. The AWZ can maneuver, bend, and hold pose just like the brand new undamaged kit. Keep that in mind when you do this, stay away from damaging any joints, armor connection points, and/or sockets.

Next, I used “Tamiya weathering mater kit” bought from e-bay (about $4.00, and this lasted me forever) to add in some oil stains.
I applied bit more than needed to highlight the applied points.
Here you can see some realistic oil stains (still bit too much). A: Right below the area where power lines for the leg connects.

B: Below the thrusters. This can be seen as the burned marks from thrusts being fired.

C: Oil stains oozing out from the damaged parts of leg modules.

D: This area would appear as the impact area for some sort of anti mobile suit grenade launchers in the final product.

Here I added some “bumpy” textures on the armors by using techniques mentioned here.

I used “Tamiya weathering mater kit” to add some rust effects. Next, I used some enamel thinner to wash out overly done weathering effects.

Here I’ve added some realistic details for the damaged shoulder shield.

A: I’ve smoothed out the area by sanding. Then I used candle to add quick burn marks (DO NOT MELT THE PLASTIC! Just lightly graze the flame over the parts).

B: I used old cell phone parts to cut out some “would be armor” parts to fit in between the shield.

C: Here is the finished product. I went over it with again with the candle flame to add burned marks to the metal upgrades.

Here are some shots of AWZ after weathering and detailing.

Thanks for reading, Project Arctic Warfare Zaku: 205 (AWZ: 205) part 2 of 4 will be posted in few days.

Zebu

Welcome!

2008-09-10T04:00:00.000-07:00

Welcome fellow Gunpla fanatics!

This is the beginning of Zebu's Gunpla Diary.

I will document all (well not all but most) that I do regarding Gundam Plastic Model (Gunpla) and/or other related subject matters.

My mission is clear,"Create one-stop reference source for those who are NEW to gunpla hobby"

As I was a newbie once, my heart goes out to those who are new at this and wish to get some solid information on how to build, modify, paint, and upgrade gunpla.

I hope that you find some useful helps, tips, and ideas.

Zebu